Nestled in an unassuming vineyard in South Australia’s Riverland, an ancient winegrape variety is about to be harvested for the first time.

It is not only reducing water bills, but reconnecting growers to their Mediterranean roots. 

Yianni Koutouzis is choosing to be the “black sheep” of Australia’s largest grape-growing wine region, by trialling the ancient Cypriot variety known as Xynisteri. 

It is a crop famous for its thick skin and drought tolerance — resistant to heatwaves, pests and low-rainfall conditions. 

For a region that has recorded three consecutive years of below-average rainfall and record-breaking heatwave events, the drought-tolerant variety has come at the perfect time. 

Unlike Mr Koutouzis’s other crops, which need watering every two days, his 800 vines of Xynisteri – planted three years ago – can go months without being watered. 

“I have my brother and mum saying, ‘Why aren’t you watering your vines?’ and I’m like, ‘We don’t need to,'” he said.

With more than 50 years of farming history in his family, it is the first time Mr Koutouzis is growing a crop that connects him to his Greek ancestors. 

“It’s a surreal feeling to be able to connect not just to the variety, but also to my family … making wine the way my grandfather and grandmother used to back in the Peloponnese in Greece,” he said. 

While Mr Koutouzis prepares to bottle his crop for the first time, the variety is also offering an alternative to an industry in crisis at a time when Australia’s climate continues to change. 

Ancient origins, modern solutions

With more than 5,500 years of history, Xynisteri (pronounced zin-uh-steh-ree) originates from Cyprus and was first introduced to Australia in 2018 by researcher Dr Alexander Copper. 

After spending multiple years overseas during wine production as well as investigating eastern Mediterranean winegrape varieties that could suit Australia’s warming and changing climate, Xynisteri was earmarked as a stand-out variety for South Australian soil. 

“We tried to grow it in McLaren Vale but it didn’t like the cold …  but when we put it [in the Riverland], the combination of the soil and the heat made it grow like crazy.

“Cyprus and most of the eastern Mediterranean is very limestone-based soil, so it looks very similar to the Riverland.” 

Dr Copper noted some Australian wine regions grow cooler-climate varieties that traditionally require a lot of winter rainfall — conditions not always reflective of Australia. 

“In South Australia [they largely grow] shiraz, cabernet, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot gris, and they’re all French varieties,” he said. 

‘Worrying’ industry and climate

The future growing season temperature for some parts of South Australia is projected to increase by almost two degrees Celsius by 2070. 

It is something principal scientist in climate applications with the South Australian Research and Development Institute (SARDI) Dr Peter Hayman has been analysing for decades. 

“There’s a bit of a headwind of it being a little bit warmer, which means the grapes will grow quicker and we will use a bit more water,” he said. 

Prior to the Millennium Drought, Dr Hayman said perennial horticulture crops (those that live for more than two years) were considered “fairly drought-proof”, as they had reliable water and a fixed allocation. 

“We came to realise nothing is more vulnerable to shortages of water than perennial horticulture because it needs water all the time, unlike annual horticulture, where you can pull back and plant less area,” he said.  

In recent years, water security had been flagged as one of the “main concerns” for winegrape growers wanting to produce in the future. 

Temporary water market prices have more than doubled in the Lower Murray Darling Basin in the past 12 months, currently sitting around $400 a megalitre, up from $187, according to water consultancy Riccardo Group. 

Along with ballooning water prices, comes wine oversupply and production, which according to Wine Australia exceeded sales in 2024-25. 

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Winegrape prices recently hit historic lows, with some Riverland growers receiving less than $100 a tonne for their grapes — a reality Yianni Koutouzis knows first-hand.

“We dropped our shiraz to the ground [recently] and mulched it up, basically because there’s no price for that variety,” he said. 

With farmers diversifying to drought-tolerant crops like Xynisteri, and the federal government’s Future Drought Fund expected to grow to $5 billion by 2028-2029, Dr Hayman believed there is still hope. 

“It’s great to have alternatives, diversity and looking at different varieties,” he said. 

Barossa bottles for the first time 

In South Australia’s Barossa Valley, more than 450 bottles of Xynisteri have been packed for the first time by vignerons Paul and Mara Georgiadis. 

While the pair have traditionally produced premium red wine, they have adapted to the Barossa’s changing consumer trends and climate. 

“People are drinking a lot more white wine, so we needed to introduce a white variety that actually suits the Barossa Valley, and that’s where Xynisteri has become one of those winners for us,” Paul Georgiadis said. 

After planting a 90-vine trial of Xynisteri in 2021, the variety has expanded to more than 600 vines stretching over one acre and become a mainstay on the property. 

“I can see the Barossa Valley evolving,” Mr Georgiadis said

“Shiraz will always have its place, but I think, long term, you’ll see a certain percentage of vines changing.” 

It is change Mr Georgiadis said his Greek family would be proud of. 

Light at the end of the tunnel 

For both producers trialling Xynisteri, the growing results have instilled some hope amidst a tough time for Australia’s wine industry. 

Back in the Riverland, Yianni Koutouzis said Xynisteri has given him a fresh perspective on the region’s future and growing capabilities. 

“We’ve got capabilities to grow grapes like Xynisteri that will win those gold medals for wine, and that’s my dream.

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